Luxury brands are omnipresent. Advertisements, fragrance, makeup and celebrities carry the dream and admiration of many.
Roman regularly treats us very thorough on topics of the luxury industry and recently, we focused on a Louboutin test.
But BonneGueule role also discover good brands about which little, with the will to popularize fashion through parades analyzes , the deciphering of trends and many other topics.
So in that vein, I’ll tell you about a brand that has done much for the luxury: Bernard Zins.
Discovery and history Bernard Zins, luxury pantalonnier
A brand steeped in innovation
Founded in 1967 by Bernard Zins, the eponymous brand has long illustrated in the manufacture of high-end men’s trousers.
Some models were also made to measure, as the tailor. His reputation had even led to work with large claws deemed mode.
Praised by the sharpest tailoring communities, the company has yet known Bernard Zins big disappointments, which sometimes upset its history and could cause it to fall.
Today, it still exists thanks to the tenacity and passion of the son of Mr. Zins, who was able to take over the business and breathe new life, but also a loyal clientele who welcomed the resumption.
Pants with an engineering approach
Bernard Zins obtained his engineering degree from the Ecole Nationale des Arts et Métiers d’Angers in 1947 and is since 1959, after a trip to the United States, it offers a new industrial design of the pants: there integrates an expandable waistband that will revolutionize the clothing industry.
Not to stop there, he created his factory of high-end trousers at Lens in 1967, and a showroom in Paris, rue de Birague in the 4th (always the same at the moment!).
Quickly, this passionate engineer will trigger a series of changes in the garment industry to become the emblem of expertise. Indeed, Bernard Zins brought an industrial control new dimension for the time, multiplying the innovations on all quality points: liners, braguettes, assembly, pockets, pleats, invisible seams, passers …
The luxury brands will not escape and then will pay close attention to him.
Lanvin, Balmain, Saint Laurent, Chanel and Hermes same (always the same) will entrust their production to the company Bernard Zins. “The genius of the creators is to identify needs, our role is to interpret” as he said!
At that time, the company employs more than 500 people and distributes expertise “tailor” industrially suitable. Pragmatic, Bernard Zins says ” the important thing is to adapt a machine that helps hand, never deny the man
In 1999, after three decades at the forefront of pants, Printemps Haussmann presents exhibition in honor of expertise Bernard Zins: “30 years of pants.” For the occasion, the most emblematic models are reissued; Louis Vuitton, Arnys, Yohji Yamamoto,…
This may seem like name dropping , but Bernard Zins marked all a time of fashion and spawned a radical change in many industrial applications. Where these multiple collaborations.
A Brand That Rises Gradually
Budgetary constraints have the luxury yet nearly caused the company’s bankruptcy: this rather fickle industry turning to cheaper production alternatives. Brands decide to stop working with the firm Bernard Zins. Following this, it declines and Lens closes its production facility.
It was not until 2006 that the company tentatively resumed development of the eponymous brand in Japan and gradually international reviving nostalgia among connoisseurs, and interest among younger.
To date, the company has thirty employees and reinvent the stylistic signatures collections gradually away sales volumes of old.
We’ll cover the details present in Bernard Zins lower, but I take this picture to draw your attention to the belt loops: they are bystanders “horse”. They are “caught” in the belt up , you will notice that it is not everywhere.
Bernard Zins pants cut with a scalpel
BZV3, BZV2… It appeals to you? Yes, like a name of obscure technical details.
Remember that the brand was created by an engineer. These are actually the names of proposed cuts in Bernard Zins, each with its specificities.
The BZV2 cut, semi-fitted, giving momentum and a nice across the shoe. The material is also very amazing and a delight to the touch. I recommend this cup for those who feel uncomfortable in pants too close to the body.
BZV3 the cut is much more adjusted, the leg is refined. More modern, we see the model wearing sneakers and not by chance. The stretch material allows use these pants wherever you go, without worrying about the fabric tensions.
An additional special category is the special trip pants (find test part). A cut and appropriate material for formal wear and comfort to any test.
A brand that fits his traveler customers by developing a specific range to use this mark necessarily points. The material has absolutely no synthetic feel. Yet it is very stretchy and reacts very well to tensions, wrinkling, splash…
The taste for beautiful materials Zins
Make an upscale women’s pants is not easy. What good is the perfect cut if the material used does not keep the pants part of his life?
The making of a high-end trousers
The outside is very neat: no wire exceeds, everything is very consistent.
But what about those invisible details that contribute to the final appearance of pants?
You should know that each stage of its manufacture, it is ironed. This allows “pre-break” the fold before mounting is a job easier, but longer.
Then the trousers is worked “by hanging”, it will not be crumpled. This is a particularly important point, demonstrating respect for the product and the stuff through.
To respect the material, the fabric is worked “with meaning”: the front and back of the pants are cut in the same direction. Thus, the two sides exactly the same texture. This seems obvious, but is not so much the as many ways to cut the material for sports trousers exist for maternity sportswear:
- tumble cutting:
The cut is made “head to tail” to avoid too heavy losses in the tissue, but the assembly, patterns or reflections do not match.
In this step, it is also possible to cut the tip of the pants in another part of the fabric to mend then, for reasons of economy yet. This is called a “peak reported.”
- Cut “to sense”
This configuration is more expensive because the material losses are greater, but was assured that the front and rear match perfectly. Example with the checked pants, wherein the units are connected horizontally and vertically by hand, symmetrically.
To be rigorous, the pants are also worked in law-thread in warp and weft: the grain is respected, either vertically (warp) or horizontally (weft). Otherwise, the leg can twist.
The pieces are then cut and sewn with textured yarn for a more esthetic final result, instead of the usual “foam over” cheaper. They are also 300 meters of wire that are used by pants.
For making trousers Bernard Zins, it is 60 minutes of work against 24 minutes on a medium range of trousers. About two times more work.
Bernard Zins applies a technical edging inside pocket bags for superior comfort, preventing the son does dissociate (very rarely used pockets technique).
You can find the full specifications of the installation details on the brand’s website (note Benoit: Do not miss this section of their website, it’s very interesting!).
Testing Bernard Zins pants
In my turn, I put on pants that made exclaim of the time customers. “Mr. Zins, your pants walk alone!”-A famous anecdote of the brand, now printed in the changing rooms.
We have already addressed the subject of techwear in BonneGueule, presenting the brands that develop clothing ranges designed for user comfort at all times (multi-pockets, water repellency, stretch …).
It is with this same will comfort Bernard Zins designed the travel range. Combine a design common to all dress pants, laptop with a suit jacket, but with a 40% synthetic material.
Surprising? See for yourself …
The “Special trip” pants BERNARD ANSI – 240 euros
Once donned, I feel wearing a sweatpant for comfort, and a trouser suit for her undeniable elegance. How have they managed this magic devil?
It is a BZV2 cup size 38, whereas I usually wear the 40 on this type of room. He did not shake my waist, it is extremely comfortable. Yet it fits perfectly without belt. It is also self-smoothing out and stain-!
The pants are made of 60% wool, 30% polyester and 3% Lycra (the composition changes according to the season). If the plastic is not recommended for most clothes, it is necessary to the technical documents.
I wore these pants several months in many circumstances, and I can tell you it lived up to its name “journey”. The red carpets (in the subway eh, not in Cannes) have caused any discomfort. I also felt the thermoregulatory effect of the wool is not subject to excessive heat or discomfort because of a fabric that gratterait.
In summary, this pant suits my movements without problem, and presents tailor details that have nothing to do with a common strech pants. It has the appearance of wool but superior comfort thereto.
This pants Special Travel All Seasons is offered at 240 euros. Do the math, other brands you have sold two to three times its price. And that was the case at the time of contracting Zins!
Pants with finishes of concern
To pay tribute to the work brought these pants, I wanted to show you some upscale details.
My opinion on Bernard Zins pants
A great pleasure to see the pioneer of pants take the bull by the beast. This is a brand full of surprises, passion and whose quality approach is more advanced in the field of ready-to-wear.
One address: the Parisian boutique Bernard Zins (but you can also send them an email if you have questions). You’ll fall for their winter range with rafters , the tartans and so on! They also have an e-shop.
A small downside, however, I had difficulty understanding the letter sequences in the product descriptions! GG means that piping pocket watch and rear-right pocket are Gros Grain. TF Fancy Fabric for the same places, and OC for Opposition Belt.
Nothing too serious, but it is always nice to know that the brand even bother to include the main details of the pants in the title.
In short, this brand is a true piece of French textile heritage and, beyond that, the wide variety of cuts and expertise Zins you are bound to find pants for your body type.