Herno, an Ode to Rain – Part II

Anyone who has ever tried an outer garment from Herno have also experienced manufacturer main hallmark section. If many outerwear perceived as bulky and immobile, this is the exact opposite. The feeling is close-fitting without tightening or compromising mobility. Something that according Hernos CEO Claudio Marenzi is a result of the brand’s 60-year experience.

Claudio speaks warmly about the 70-year-old head of the cutter Mario, who worked for Herno for over 50 years.

– He can really push our younger cutters crazy. That’s all the time, “almost makes like this, but better.” In the end, however, the result was impeccable.

One of many explanations behind the cut is the manufacturer ‘duble’ technology, which is somewhat simplified means that two layers of fabric sewn together by hand after a specific pattern. The result is almost invisible seams and joints, but the technology also gives the garment a special structure and stability. Jil Sander was one of many private label clients who appreciated art, but Herno has also produced outerwear for companies such as Prada, Hermes, Armani and Louis Vuitton.

Claudio Marenzi talking about the concept of the New Tradition as a summary of the brand’s philosophy. A large part of the idiom is taken from their own archives, but with modern solutions in the form of fabric and lining. Last fall launched brand including the concept of “Flexy down”; a goose down jacket which is injected in different parts of the garment. Made of a nylon and lycrablanding jacket is extremely flexible and with a weight of only 200 grams. For spring launches brand Bike Project, which consists of two jacks models, designed for motorcyclists. One the most advanced features of the jackets is the airbag in the neck which is developed in collaboration with Engine Air Bag. For next fall will also jackets in nylon and Kevlar mixtures to protect from light fall from the bike or Vespa.

Craft skills within the company makes it possible to create this type of outerwear. We can find new smart solutions because we have the experience, says Claudio.

How do you experience that the customer demand for outerwear changed?

– Today’s consumers place considerably higher demands on function. They want a jacket that you can basically ski in at the same time it must be sufficiently stylish to wear in the city. I myself am not particularly fond when extreme functional jackets worn with business suits, but we are trying to work for basically very classic models, but at the same time make them a little more functional through smart fabrics and lining solutions. Although a classic cashmere coat can be very elegant, it is hardly optimal for those who want a durable outer garment with excellent breathability. The style of mixing function and elegance is already well established in Italy and even Japan, but I am convinced that it will get even stronger foothold in future.  

Herno together with example Incotex and Boglioli example of product specialists who in recent seasons had quite a lot of attention. What do you think the increased interest is due?

– In the 90s and much of the 2000s, it was believed that money begat money. I think the economic downturn caused us to want to return to the product itself.  For me a big part of fashion houses communications very outdated. It is about selling a lifestyle. I think today’s consumers with the Internet and the greater flow of information has become much more aware. They want to create their own lifestyle. Perhaps the biggest change occurs in younger fashion markets like Russia and China where it is flashy luxury start to disappear in favor of a more sophisticated style.