The origins of the oxford cloth
The origins of the oxford cloth are rather vague and contradictory regularly.
But a commonly accepted version is that a Scottish weaver would have the difficult task of producing textiles for the most prestigious universities in the world, including of course that of Oxford. So he created this cloth with a white thread basis, while working a subtle grain.Compared to a poplin, its benefits were to be more breathable, more resistant, and easier maintenance.
It was also a totally formal shirt, that it was with a blazer and tie . Because of its use in academia, she was quickly erected as an essential of the preppy style.
The fact of the return in the pants (or not) was already causing debate for the time. Similarly, the design of the collar (dubbed or not, more or less long or flared) is still a source of some debate between purists and historians of preppy clothing.
But when polo players began to appropriate this shirt (buttoned to the neck so it stays in place even galloping) in the 30 for its more breathability than poplin (cotton voile is airy but too fragile for sports use), the oxford shirt gained unprecedented casual connotation (as I recall, this shirt was primarily formal).
And thus for the time (30’s), the Oxford became synonymous with ” casual chic “. All this heritage helped shape the oxford shirt as a symbol of an elegant young, casual, studious and sporty. That’s where comes this perfect balance between formal and relaxed than it is today.
Let us now see the possibilities of such a garment …
Wear a oxford with a suit: Easy
The oxford shirt being in its origins a very formal clothing, it is entirely rational to want to go with a suit.
His interest is to break the possible stuffy and sterile side of too formal attire. The subtly grainy oxford fits better with textured wool fabric type flannel or braided.
However, in some strict professional circles (upper echelons of the bank or finance), the oxford may be considered too casual matter.
In this case, you settle for the rest of your outfit is perfect : nice tie and impeccably cut suit.
Wear oxford shirt with a tuxedo jacket, why not
It is an assembly against-intuitive, but it may work, if one is prepared to have a necessarily more formal than casual (along with a tuxedo jacket, it is difficult to find a totally relaxed outfit !).
However, the buttoned collar of most shirts in oxford does not lend itself to a room dressed as a jacket with satin lapels … This leads to another problem: find a tuxedo jacket that does not make too precious … or too ceremonious!
And we must accept alienating the purists will cry foul in front of a tuxedo jacket worn mismatched, which has no sharp notch or shawl collar.
Personally, I love this tuxedo jacket brand éclectic (I have the blue copy, although the brand’s website indicates only black version), the Neapolitan shoulder, which can easily marry with the relaxation of a shirt in oxford:
Wear oxford shirt with a tie: nothing complicated
Wear a tie with an oxford shirt is surely one of the best assemblages elegant / casual that you can do, besides venturing quietly to a preppy style. In this case, choose the knitted ties , or those with rougher textures that tie in shiny silk would be inappropriate here.
Florian, the team is adept a casual elegance so it uses many parts a priori formal, more relaxed but with materials such as “casual suits” from Gant Rugger or wool ties.
Building on shades of shirts very neutral like white or blue light allows to pass any color tie (for cons, there is obviously a little taste to have to give his tie and jacket).
Wear a oxford way street: it is possible!
Kevin, great nose for trends ( The Renardeau , it’s him) does exactly the opposite of me. While I love coats with narrow shoulders, he voluntarily pass a surépaulé coat. And while I banished the darkness of the male wardrobe, it is the daily, etc.
So I was curious to see how he was appropriating this shirt. And as usual, he composed a holding opposite of what I expected : with black, and even a little yellow.
Wear a oxford with chinos: no simpler
This is surely the assembly of the most intuitive and simple clothes with a shirt in oxford since the Chino is located exactly in the same vein as the preppy oxford (you begin to know!). These are very versatile pieces.
With an oxford shirt, which is a neutral base, you can practically carry everything down: a blue or beige chino course, but feel free to indulge yourself with brighter colors like coral or red brick.