What is it that distinguishes a tailored suit? In the second part of our series on the AW Bauer & Co., we have looked closely at the craftsmanship behind herrskrädderiet.
Frederik Andersen is just about to cut out parts of a Covert Coat. The customer has asked to acute stroke, which led to a minor debate among tailors in Bauer. Traditionally, this is a model that has straight shots and there is some disagreement about whether the pointy kind suitable or not. In the end it is always the customer to decide. Frederik shows a special section in the template to get extra shape of the chest; Lindvalls average, taken from a now disused tailoring.
– I think we are the only company to use this technology. Normally, the template for the breast piece divided in two. This technology provides much better fit around the chest, which is important to outer coat should be able to mold himself after his jacket over, says Frederik.
The textual try to explain a craft that takes several years to learn is an almost impossible task. It sits in the tailor’s head, heart and hands. But it can be explained theoretically how the process behind a tailored suit looks. When the customer in consultation with the tailor selected fabric and model takes måttagningen. From this creates an individual pattern in the paper which is then placed on the fabric where the different parts kritas and later cut. Then sew the bröstuppskäret and horsehair as pikerats stuck in vattulin stitched stuck in his jacket front piece. Krag a sheet pikeras together with the collar to collar provide support and shape. Since stitched his jacket and trousers various parts together for a first test on the client. It seems the balance of his jacket carefully and tailor highlight any adjustments with chalk.
After the first test is the shiny parts apart and adjustments made on the parts concerned. Then sew up the edges, lining and pockets finished and the suit stitched to a second test where the tailor carefully eyes silhouette and details like sleeve length. For the third and final test, also called the study means, sewn costume ready. Pages and shoulders pressed and then sewn together. The collar is sewn and tightened by brejdeln, a piece that goes along with the battle. The sleeves are completed. Finally avpressas whole suit. Sometimes, however, require additional studies for achieving the desired results.
–We try to keep a delivery time of 6-8 weeks, but sometimes it’s hard. It is easy to believe that it is faster when the customer well sewn up a costume with us earlier and then already all dimensions. But there are so many different factors that affect the result, as the fabric behave and not least the model the customer has chosen, which means that we always prefer to have at least three tests, says Frederik.
What is it that distinguishes a tailored suit? A word Frederik and his colleague Martin Ekolin speaks warmly about the garment’s balance. The jacket structure formed by traditional methods with horsehair and vattulin which hand spiker and pressed to get the right shape. It gives the garment right flexibility and freedom of movement.
– Although there are manufacturers of clothing and dimensions sewn which has quilted liners, it is important to remember that these are not adapted to the carrier at the tailor. There is a tremendous effort to sew and squeeze the pads for the wearer’s body, which is needed to create a perfect fit.
Like any craft is a big part of the challenge is to be able to handle a variety of fabrics and materials. In the past, the tailors had to buy larger quantities from weavers to keep a separate layer of fabric. Today, the vast majority of weaving a solid order catalog which increases the choice for the customer significantly. And the range of fabrics in Bauer’s impressive. There is everything from rugged hand-woven British tweed fabrics at super lightweight cashmere fabrics from Loro Piana.
–There are many who like to brag about the fabrics in their costumes. For me, you can not say that one fabric could be finer than the others, but the choice of fabric is about applications and how the garment is constructed. Many people forget that the tailor so is working through the fabric much more than a clothing sewn suit, which makes the fabric when the suit is ready sewn often had a different nature against what it perceived in tygbounchen. Many of the too-fine-scale fabrics is therefore often better clothing to look good right on the hanger, says Frederik.
Do you feel that the customer of the tailor has changed since you started in the profession?
– I find myself on my ten here on Bauer should see more suit carrier dares to little more. We do, for example, many semi-lined suits and it’s not just dark blue or gray that apply. In the past, the majority of the customers who came here very keen to dress appropriately.
It comes in a customer to pick up his suit washed and received some minor adjustments, a lifetime of service that comes with the purchase of a suit on Bauer. Tailors Börje Moberg points out jokingly that it’s getting a little frayed at the edge.
– But I have not had it for very long, says the customer.
– In 1994, it is the inner lining. Borje responds with a smile, it comes time to order a new one.
Allowing sew up a costume of Bauer undoubtedly require some other perspectives than those we are constantly fed with the fashion world. It may appear to be completely insane to pay from 30 000 for a two-piece suit. But for those who have ever visited AW Bauer & Co. and seen the craftsmanship that actually lies behind a suit feels the price is anything but unreasonable.