Tejano, denim, jean, cowboy… this fabric is the most famous in history and is that it has not lost an apex of its validity since its creation.
Levi Strauss, a visionary merchant who sold these sturdy fabrics in San Francisco to make the clothes of the mine workers in the midst of the gold rush, created for the workers the jeans with this material that resisted every maltreatment that Suffered, perfect for the work unfolding in the United States around 1870, just as Jacob Davis contacted him, offering to patent the stitching of the pocket with copper wire.
Davis was a tailor and was tired of having to sew and pick up each one of the pockets of the miners, he came up with the idea of reinforcing the sewing but did not have enough money to patent it so he offered it to Strauss.
The two entrepreneurs got the patent in 1973 and today we continue to wear the same pattern they designed.
A famous American magazine in the 60s defines this fabric as:
“Surely the oldest fabric in the world but icon of eternal youth”
… and so it is a garment with values that have marked periods, suitable for each type of public, for urban movements, for every citizen of the planet, denim is a garment that has belonged as an icon of past and present times.
But there is a garment that never tells its history … the one that comes and goes like the waves of the sea according to seasons, but in fact never stops being there, DENIM JACKET and this post is dedicated to her.
LEVI’S and LEE have the discussion of who was the first to design the first Texas jacket: LEVI’S goes back to the shirts and jackets for miners made in 1870 and LEE in 1935 created the 101J jacket, its great bet and one of the best designs that LEE has had in its history.
I am left with the LEVI’S version and praise the beauty of the LEE denim jacket since at that time the design of LEE competes with the 506 of LEVI’s created especially for BING CROSBY (singer of JAZZ and ambassador of the mark in the years 30 ), LEE is much more trendy and sexy than the LEVI’S model.
There is an anecdote about the creation of the BING CROSBY Texan jacket line, while LEE continued the design for workers and workers. LEVI’S transforms the design worker into a TUXEDO jean.
Bing Crosby arrived in Canada with a friend, direct from California and with the typical cowboy look, arrived at one of the best hotels in the city. Unaware that it was a celebrity, the receptionist of the hotel put many impediments to enter telling them that they were not appropriate, since the hotel demanded another type of dress. Upon discovering that he was so renowned singer and songwriter apologized and obviously let him stay. Upon returning, Bing Crosby explained what happened to the brand and decided to create a special TUXEDO for him, marketing it and getting the JEAN (fabric) to get another type of STATUS.
Here is the turning point where the Texan jacket becomes an accessory in some way without knowing it, they created a special garment to wear day to day, to be elegant but with the fabric of the field people (cowboys), miners or Prisoners (below).
A design that is the predecessor to the whole wave of designs with this fabric that great designers have used to create iconic garments that have nothing to do with the intention or the use for which it was created.
The History In Images
Throughout history, the Texan jacket has not left indifferent to stylists, characters or those responsible for characterizing large stars on the screen. It meant youth and rebellion. Values extrapolated by our parents and grandparents if they wanted to emulate or feel like those icons that were gradually created through those characters that were starting to come to the big screen. It is then when the cowboy jean of FARWEST begin to invade the world.
But what about the woman? Since the cowboys in the previous photo only wear jeans … because MARILYN arrived…
And notice well that at that time is a piece that begins to gain popularity but that prisoners and peasants continue to use and does not affect. What will he have?
Muhammad Ali with a denim jacket and Marilyn Monroe.
Just as the jean has lasted, the Texan jacket in all its versions did not die in any of the decades of our history.
Of the 50 for United States field people, brands like LEE, LEVI’S or WRANGLER were chosen by the American public.
The celluloid is responsible for popularizing this garment as a must in every wardrobe, both male and female, being the man the direct target during these decades.
The values represented by jeans wear and specifically the COWBOY JACKET: youth, rebellion, freedom, free spirit, hardness, comfort…. From the 50s modernity, freedom, in the 60 and 70 libertat, rebellion … and the 80s and 90s, an unprecedented classic, a basic one that had, a garment for the youth… 2000 democratization, any person, child, woman, Men, youth and adults wear the denim jacket.
Through images, I want you to see how in every decade with its related social movement, never stopped using. Contemporary movements with antagonistic ideas shine without shame, without giving importance to the opponent, if not fully adapted to their philosophy and movement.
DENIM JACKET transmits democratic values, man and women look without problems, hippies, rockers, mods or skins, wear it in their characteristic outfit. It is the garment, next to its companion “JEAN” that more transmits the equality.
The Mods, urban movement born in the 50’s and established in the 60’s in England. Followers of the modern and musical culture of the moment. Contrary to the rocker movement characterized by its characteristic style. Although his most iconic jacket is the green parka along with his wasps.. they did not hesitate to wear a Texan jacket, yet without losing their elegance.
The Rockers also wore the Texan jacket, but just like the mods was not their badge, since the leather jacket was the most characteristic, still in the 90 is recovered, and jean is the favorite for the rockers of the time .
Movements like skins, derived from the mod movement, make the denim jacket a symbol.
In the 70’s, transgressive music groups, such as ROLLING, THE WHO and Jimmy Hendrix among others, adapt to their style this garment so characteristic each to its style.
We could say that at this time it becomes a canvas … to create as much as you like and to make clear what color, group, philosophy you are … without ceasing to be a Texan jacket.
Mick Jagger, singer of the Rolling Stones, historical person to mark a before and after in the musical culture, giving a turn to the rock, is an icon that represented millions of citizens and young people, even his extravagance his Texan jacket accompanied it.
Jimmy Hendrix in the always remembered festival of WOODSTOCK and under these lines an image that represents the time.
Artists, always image and prescriptors of ways of life, attitudes, where we see ourselves represented … they also have this basic, which fit their style and personality.
John Lennon and George Harrison in denim jacket in the 70s and Patty Smith underneath these lines.
And the 80’s and 90’s…. Until today
The world is more democratized, fashion continues to advance, but the Texan jacket never disappears, is always in the retina of memory, never stopped wearing, may the pattern changed … but she is still at the peak of its history , Young people still prefer it … and icons of the time do not give up.
But the difference between them does not influence taking them from teen idols to personalities in the music world who would not like to resemble live-in boys, school teachers, peasants…. And fashionistas, it does not matter … THE JACKET TEJANA IS A BASIC.
The club of the 5 (1985), film where the rebel of the group lucia jacket tejana, quite associated to the “bad children of the time” although after few years the children well of sensation of to live also lucian.
Brandon icon of the time with jacket tejana, Kelly of Salvados by the bell, idol adolescent of the time with customized jacket like the image that follows it.
In the 80’s and 90’s rockers, they wear their jackets and vests completely customized to their style. The blue canvas takes shape… to move another message.
Other styles were emerging until 2000 …. And all are the same garment… some, by characterization, others by personality, other blunders (see DESTINY’S CHILD or BRITNEY SPEARS)…
All the same garment, all, the same idea, all the same end and same values … but in itself a garment that has adopted a thousand different styles, which has dressed stars, peasants, prisoners and lawyers. A garment that has served as a canvas, which has allowed the imagination of each urban tribe to flow, each generation, retransmitting the values that each associated with, but always being the same.
And this fabric that one day in the 60s someone said he relayed eternal youth, makes the garments made with it are pieces that can never be missing in your closet, a must, something essential, that has always been there, The story has been a protagonist and companion and after more than 100 years of its creation deserved a tribute, and this is my small tribute.
DENIM JACKET WITH EMBROIDERED ROSES
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