When at the beginning of June we publish the post about the best seamstresses to order the dress of our dreams and hit some of the dressmakers to which interviewed commented us that because of the crisis had been forced to accept orders allowing the client to provide herself the fabric you wanted that they confeccionasen them a garment.
Until just a decade ago the dressmakers they had a series of sample books important companies and – how it could be chain – which provided them small orders so that they could make orders to the retail for its select clientele. Even today there are some designers, few in honor of the truth, that continue to use these samples.
For those who want to delve more into the topic of fabrics there is a book – which has reissued at least on two occasions – to which they are entitled “Tissue manual”. This book written by María de the Carmen López Soler It is a synthesis of textile in the form of samples with vivid fabrics. The book is presented as a practical carrying case containing texts in Spanish and English, images in high definition, and 217 actual tissue samples so that we can touch them. The book is carete but will be for life. Price: 163,33 EUR.
The theme of fabrics is not as simple as it might seem because it has lost the habit of playing, and when you don’t understand what you have before or what are playing hard we know what we can do with it, how to work it. For this reason, many times we buy fabrics influenced by the trends, or by the fashion color that year without taking into account if the fabric has enough fall to the model that we have chosen or tone helps us.
The world most expensive fabric is called vigogne and is made with 150 km of yarn per kilo of fabric to cost €3,500 /
Also talked with the leaders of important textile with a long tradition in Madrid stores, as they may be of José María Ruiz o Fabrics Julián López, who explained to us that the cost per metre of fabric tends to be quite expensive when the fabric is good. From 30 Euro metro which can cost a fine dress, to the 500 meters underground, When it’s a couture lace. Looking to next season, emphasize returning the fancy jacquards and patterns in colorful garments that are committed by the graphic pattern.
However, when it comes to consider what are the most expensive fabrics in the world the first thing that one has to take into account is what these represent, Since what they may mean for one does not have to be equal to others, without detracting from the design Because maybe the only thing that changes is the type of materials used.
What really matters is the creativity, the passion, the Art with which are woven, the interest aroused by his benefits without that is why cost exorbitant prices.
Interview with rose Pujol Gratacos
So you explain better all these issues, we have been in contact with Rose Pujol, Designer of Gratacos. A Catalan textile company specialized in fabrics for special moments, not everyday – we are not referring only to weddings, baptisms and communions, but also for those moments in which we like to get out of the everyday and the uniformity.
Rosa, in what type of tissue is specialized Gratacos?
Gratacos collections are based on four pillars:
- Woven high quality smooth
- Fabrics embroidered by hand and machine with own design
- Woven with exclusive prints on silk and other materials
The tissues that are most identified in Gratacos are silk in general, not just for brides but also for party costumes. What really changes the price of an article is the type of thread used to weave. There are threads with a lot of fantasy and those, of course, are more expensive; also it is important how many colors are used. It is not the same a bicolor that do a more than three-colour jacquard weaving. The number of streams to CM will also be definitive in terms of price, a fabric can vary between 15 to 70 strokes per centimeter.
The finish on a tissue and also increase its price. All manipulations that we do as for example embroidery will do to change the final price of the item.
Blossom Première Vision constitute a select group of 60 manufacturers of fabrics that provide the large houses in the world of luxury and fashion
Where are these collections?
Textile companies make collections of fabrics presented in the international halls as “The London Textile Fair”, “Munich Fabric Start”, “Milano Unica” and “Première Vision” in New York, Istanbul, Paris, and most recently, “Blossom” in Paris.
Collections, part of show at these fairs, also traveling with commercial agents carrying them in their samples to the studios and workshops of the major brands of fashion.
How long does it take in weaving them?
Creation of a collection every time times are shorter, and it works faster. For a couple of seasons we are subjected to the pressures of making collections continued, not closed, with innovative proposals for collections cruises that increasingly large fashion brands designed.
Do you manufacture them exclusively for some designers?
If a designer sees in the sample that you are teaching an article that interests you can acquire it and order uniqueness. When a designer needs a specific design also can be, adapting his idea to turn it into a tissue.
When a designer wants to try an item in the collection normally ask metres to make their garments, but as they are a tissue only for it requires weaving between 300 and 500 meters.
What is the delivery time?
The deadline for this type of production is usually 3 weeks, 1 month or 2 months. It all depends on work required, its preparation, and different operations or transformations you need tissue in hindsight.
The programming on the looms is very important. When they have a Warp assembled they cannot stop it or dismantle it. It is imperative to weave all the provisions, and then mount the following. However, there are very complicated tissues that are very slow knitting, and everything slows down productions.
There is something of what you want to record?
What concerns me most is little tracking that make schools of fashion to the theme of the weaving. Knowledge with those who leave their students are very limited, and it not only occurs in Spain.
The problem is that on many occasions or the students themselves are aware of the important thing is you learn to have a good knowledge of textile to then learn work fabrics.
What concerns me most is the little follow-up that make the fashion to the theme of the weaving schools
Normally, at the end of course work sector professionals check dismayed that there is a great lack of knowledge with regard to textiles, and that limits his work. But even if students try to mislead if same for awhile because it is perhaps a subject that might not attract them too or attention-grabbing, need to be aware of that fashion design goes far beyond the red carpet. For this reason they should require fashion schools which implement this subject in its programs.
A student who wants to do practices in the textile factories and textile design studios hard will leverage the time if you don’t have the minimum knowledge required to be able to function without problems in this sector. When some rare bird with knowledge on this subject in Gratacos we don’t have problem to offer an internship of one or two months so that they can see the environment and expand their knowledge.
There is much talk of the creators, but fabrics designers are big unknowns.
In the last edition of Première Vision which took place in the month of February, it managers conducted a marketing campaign which titled “They Inspire Fashion”. This campaign was starring with representatives from the different sectors comprising the textile fair. A total of 6 people (which I was) belonging to industry textile, and chosen by the design Department of the fair. The aim was to give visibility to people who are in the creative departments of different companies, designers who make fabrics that every season with your work, dedication and passion will surprise us and we fall in love.
A real honor!
I already think so! And a real exception, because normally the protagonists of advertising campaigns always are clothing designers, and this time gave this possibility to designers of the textile industry. Which is essential so that students who wish to dedicate to the world of fashion might want to consider that fashion is much more than clothes. It’s a sector full of possibilities, since you can work in the industry of yarn, leather goods, accessories, weaving and a long etcetra broadening the horizons of fashion studies.
Pink, what inspires you to create?
I collect ideas, images and thoughts that I’m picking up from here and there, and keep them in a Special Edition without order, which I opened at the time where I start to design a new collection. When inspiration fails me, instinctively go out to the street, and I get to walk aimlessly until I find something that appeals to me and allowing me to continue working fixed.
If you could be a fabric, which you would be?
No doubt a mikado of 165 gr/square meter
What are your proposals for the autumn-winter 2016-2017?
I am of the opinion that the Mediterranean collective consciousness has always overestimated the summer whereas the winter as an impasse. For the next winter season wants to claim the winter through a new range of colours that give life to a rainbow of winter, a NEOarc.
We said goodbye Rose Pujol thanking him for the kindness with which we assisted (despite being already on vacation!), and we are echoing its message because the textile industry needs young talent because they represent your future.
Gratacos, Blossom photos Première Vision
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